Used a 3 1/2" length of 0.628" brass rod. First step was to reduce this to fit as the ID of the copper pipe used is 0.572". Reduced to 0.568" for a nice fit.
The dimensions from the plan (NEMES whistle) were then adjusted to this diameter of copper pipe.
The brass was reduced further to 0.528" from 3/8" to 3/4" relative to one end. Used a left hand bit to get a square corner on the right end. This part was then clamped on two vee blocks with two strap clamps. Set the spindle center to the left of the lip. Milled down 0.222" for 1 1/4" to the left. Flipped the part over and repeated the cut (except for 1 1/2") leaving 1/8". Cleaned the part up with a file.
I found it necessary to remove the table to remove brass dust causing significant drag. This was done by removing the handle with the set screw under the zero ring. Then removed the set screw at the bottom of the black remaining ring. Removed the stop screw and slid the table off. Cleaned the long screw removing significant swarf. The table and handle were replaced giving smooth movement.
Reclamped the whistle with the unfinished (key hole) end protruding. Located the top and end with a 3/8" end mill. Lowered the end mill 0.222" and took 0.01" cuts to 0.25" from the end. This left the 0.125" tab. Left the part in the clamps and switched to a 5/32" drill to drill the keychain hole. Did not move from the last cut with the 3/8" end mill. Consequently, the drill was centered 3/16" from the end. Moved the carriage 1/16" to center the drill on the x-axis. Detected the edge and moved 1/2 the diameter (= 0.284" + 0.078"). Then moved to the center of the gap and drilled a 1/4" through hole.
Attempted to silver solder the brass to a 1.448" length of copper pipe. Clamped the body in the vise with the lip at the top of the vise jaws. Fluxed the body and pushed the chime tube down to the vise. Heated with the propane torch and put solder around the joint. Seemed to work and hold well. Turned over and set in the vise with the other copper pipe at 0.144" [important dimension] from the fipple tube. Soldered, but solder went into the body!!! Will need to reheat and resolder this joint.
I have since learned a better way to solder. I was using way too much solder and it ran everywhere. Two or three 1/32" segments should have been enough to fill the gap between parts and would have avoided the mess. It is not clear if the parts can be salvaged.
April 26, 2017
After having learned a few things over the years this was not much of a problem. Since only the chime tube remained on, only a few operations needed to be completed. First, the non-mouthpiece end was cleaned up with a small file and sandpaper leaving a very nice polished finish with a few minor blemishes from the old soldering. Too put the fipple tube on, the end need to be turned down a few thou to fit in the copper pipe. After centering in a four jaw chuck the end was reduced to fit. The copper pipe was then cut to about 0.8" and both ends cleaned up with a file. To maintain an accurate separation from the chime tube two spacers were needed. These were made by thinning a small bar of aluminum from 3/16" to 0.144". This bar was cut in half. The whistle body was held in the vise by the chime tube with soft aluminum jaws and the two spacers were inserted above the chime tube. The fipple tube was put on and pressed down to the spacers. After treating with flux four tiny pieces of solder were evenly spaced around the inside of the fipple tube at the junction with the whistle end. Heating the copper tube melted the solder producing a nice joint.
The flux did a number on the aluminum spacers.
All that remained was to clean up the end. The body of the whistle was held in the four jaw chuck with soft copper jaws and centered. The excess pipe was faced off down to and including facing the end of the body. The corner was bevelled with a file and the end was sanded with 400 grit sandpaper. This produced a nice 8 year-old whistle!
